Statue plinths should be stable, should complement the sculpture, complement the surroundings, and should be affordable.
See further down for a directory of plinth suppliers, and topics such as how to build your own indoor and outdoor plinth.
Most table-sized sculpture and smaller outdoor statues need a plinth so they can be viewed at a height that allows the viewer to appreciate the artwork. Sculpture portrait heads, floor-based artwork, head and shoulder busts, sundials, and statues being located in flower beds or behind furniture can also benefit from having a plinth.
Outdoor plinths, need to be resistant to wind and weather, and provide security against theft, while indoor plinths need to be easy to clean, and are most useful if they accommodate a different sculpture in the future, or if the plinth itself could work elsewhere, should you ever move things around.
– Stability: A plinth needs to stand up without rocking, which is harder than it sounds, because it is influenced by the weight of any sculpture placed on top.
– Complementary design: Statue plinths should complement the sculpture, and the home or garden. This can be achieved with appropriate sizing, sympathetic colours and styles, or contrasting colours and designs.Â
– Affordability: You don’t want to be surprised by large unanticipated display costs after purchasing a statue, and the more you are aware of your choices the more you can keep plinth costs under control.
– Outdoor wind and weather resistance: Pedestals and statue plinths placed outside or in the garden have a lot more to contend with, as fluctuating temperatures, extreme wind, rain, frost, moss and bird poo can all contribute to difficulty maintaining a plinth, and keeping the statue it supports safe.
– Outdoor security: Safety isn’t just about weather, as outdoor statues are more likely to be targets of theft. The plinth isn’t the target, but it is a big factor in keeping the sculpture safe in your garden.
– Indoor wipeable plinths: Everything in your house needs cleaning, and flat topped surfaces like furnishings and plinths need special attention to keep them dust free. An easily wipeable surface can keep your statue looking good and the plinth it sits on from becoming an eye-sore.
– Indoor aesthetic flexibility: Most people change their decor, moving things around and trying artworks in different locations as they expand they collections, redecorate, or try a different look. A plinth that could work as well for a future sculpture, or could look just as good elsewhere in your home, is a plinth that won’t need to be replaced in the future.
 But which plinths are best?
Above – Cast stone Georgian style plinth from Ashover Stone (UK)
Order of outdoor plinth longevity – including material strength and other considerations, from strongest to weakest:
1/ Non-ferrous (non-rusting) metals – stainless steel is expensive
2/ Granite & Quartzite – top natural material, expensive
3/ Concrete – strong all rounder, but absorbs stains
4/ Brick – weak mortar mix can require future re-pointing
5/ Boulders (large stones) – damage can increase attractiveness
6/ Ferrous (rustable) metals – rusting eventually weakens joints
7/ Marble, Dolorite – can fracture with drilling
8/ Sandstones and limestones – reasonably easy to chip
9/ Cast stone – reasonably easy to chip, available in many colours
10/ Toughened glass & Plastic composites – hard to damage
11/ Solid wood – will rot in five or ten years
12/ Treated timber – will rot in three or four years
13/ Resin – easy to chip accidentally
14/ Perspex & Acrylic plastic – these scratch easily
15/ Marine plywood – will rot in two or three years
16/ Wood stumps (still rooted) – rots quickly from exposed grain
17/ Plywood – will blow and rot very quickly
18/ MDF or fibreboard – will bubble very quickly and rot
Above – A corten steel plinth designed to turn orange with rust, from Tom’s Bespoke Plinths
Non-mechanical security for outdoor plinths:
At private sites, these things are good:
  – Someone being at home most of the time,
  – A site visible from the house,
  – Dogs,
  – CCTV and security lighting
  – Walls, fences and gates
 And these things are bad:
  – Empty houses
  – Visibility and nearness to a road or public highway
  – Visibility from a well-used right of way
 On commercial sites, public sites, large estates and holiday homes, these things are good:
  – Onsite security,Â
  – High staff awareness of scheduled work by contractors, and an understanding of who to communicate with to check,
  – Lots of lighting,
  – Night time public access restrictions,
  – CCTV and monitored Security alarmsÂ
The best OUTDOOR plinths for garden statues
If in doubt, ask a supplier if the pedestal is suitable for outdoor use. My favourite outdoor plinth is at the bottom of this section.
Long-lasting plinths:
The longest lasting materials in all weathers are stone, brick, concrete, and metal. Though even these materials have qualifiers. Cast stone and the soft stones like limestone are more vulnerable than hard stones like granite. Brick plinths do need to be mortared with a decent cement mix mortar to stay strong. Some metal plinths are too thin and too prone to corrosion. To the left is list of materials from stongest to weakest.
Secure plinths:
Plinths can be made as secure as possible, but they cannot be made wholly thief-proof. The most secure plinth is one that is placed in a location that can be seen by people who know who should be there. Non-mechanical plinth security is considered to the left.
There are mechanical steps we can take in securing plinths. In order, this is, (1) the attachment method of the statue to the pedestal, (2) the strength of the plinth, (3) the attachment method of the plinth to the footing.
The most common standard for secure plinths is, (1) the bolting or glueing of the statue to the top of the plinth, (2) the use of a stone, concrete, brick, metal or heavy timber plinth, (3) and the bolting or gluing of the plinth to a concrete foundation.Â
This security standard is only as strong as the statue, and only as effective as the attachment gap. What this means firstly is that, most statue thieves are after the metal value of the sculpture, and that means if it would take longer to cut through the plinth, they will instead cut through the sculpture. Secondly, this means if you leave a handy gap between the sculpture and the plinth you attach it to, you provide a point of leverage or an opening for a cutting tool that can turn a secure fixing into a vulnerable one.Â
Traditional outdoor plinths:
Many traditional outdoor plinths are made from natural or cast stone. These materials weather extremely attractively in a garden.
Traditionally plinths have often been integrated into water features like ponds and pools, into gateways and garden walls, and into building facades.Â
Modern outdoor plinths:
Simple shaped stone plinths tend to be popular in contemporary gardens, and can suit minimalist and wildlife garden styles. While glass and steel can work well designed into urban and industrial landscape designs.
Highly coloured plinths, patterned plinths, or plinths that include laser cuts designs
The inclusion of a plinth or sculpture pedestal into a contemporary garden might be complemented by lighting, including uplighting, spot lighting or coloured outdoor lighting.
The ‘best’ outdoor plinths (my recommendation):
My recommendation is a balance between simplicity, security, mobility and affordability. A brick or stone built plinth can be styled to fit your setting, with the sculpture bolted onto a cap-piece so that if you ever need to remove the sculpture, you can break the cap-piece off the plinth at the seam without damaging the statue.Â
Find out how your gardener can build one for you, or how you can build one yourself below in the ‘Building your own plinth from brick or stone’ section. Â
The best INDOOR plinths for sculptures
My favourite indoor plinth is at the bottom of this section.
Easy-clean plinths:
Indoors plinths get dusty. Easily wipeable surfaces include plinths coated with oil-based paints (such as exterior paints), and varnished wooden plinths. Water-based paint can dissolve when wiped with a damp cloth, and repeated cleaning can leave them looking dirty, or as though the colour has been washed out. Unfinished wooden plinths similarly can look dirty after being cleaned with water, and long term the wood can become water-stained or colour-leached.
Resin plinths are extremely easy to clean (unless they’ve been painted, after which it just becomes a question of whether the paint is water soluble, or water resistant like an exterior oil based paint). The less common toughened glass, plexiglass or acrylic plastic plinth are all very easy to clean (though the last two are super easy to irreversibly scratch).Â
Stone is most expensive, and while granites are easy to clean and are stain resistant, most other stones do absorb stains and may need a coat of sealant to avoid staining through repeated wiping with a damp cloth.
Modern indoor plinths:
Minimalist style rectangular plinths have been the contemporary fashion for a long time, and are usually blended into the home with a sympathetic paint.Â
As indoor plinths do not have to survive the weather a large number of cheap plinths are available, the most common being those made of mdf or fibreboard. These are not long-lived plinths, because they can bubble when they get damp from mopping around the base, and sometimes even from regular cleaning with a damp cloth. But they are extremely affordable. We actually recommend marine ply if you have one built for you, though marine ply plinths are hard to find off the shelf. Normal ply wood still lasts longer than mdf.
Traditional indoor plinths:
There are many antique plinths available for purchase that use highly decorative stone, often within ornate settings, such as between decorated legs and cap-pieces. There are also many modern recreations of victorian period, baroque period, and classical revival plinths. However, these are often not to everyone’s tastes and you may find that solid wood plinths are better at capturing the traditional feel you are looking for, and can be more easily be matched to more contemporary decor. You can do this using a wood stain, coloured varnish, or a sympathetic coat of paint (solid or rubbed back).
The ‘best’ indoor plinths (my recommendation):
My favourite indoor plinth is a solid block of wood, such as sustainably sourced pine or oak, sanded down thoroughly to remove cutting marks, and then either waxed using a water-resistant and stain-resistant wax for a natural wood colour. Or, alternatively, painted using an oil-based water-resistant paint that is sympathetically coloured to the plinth’s surroundings. One important reason for this is that a solid wood plinth has a lot of weight to it, and it is much less likely to tip over if someone knocks it or backs into it by accident
Above – Modern minimalist plinths from Plinths and Pedestals (UK)
Above – Traditional style black fluted plinth from Sculptured Arts Studio (UK)
Building your own outdoor statue plinth from brick or stone
What you need:
Measuring tape, cement (bags), builder’s sand (bags), cement mixer or plywood sheet and spade, bricklaying trowel, pointing trowel, chosen bricks or stone, chosen cap-piece of stone or concrete or metal, outdoor adhesive, adhesive applicator, stainless steel threaded rods, stainless steel washers, stainless steel nuts, adjustable spanner, blankets for protecting the sculpture, timber offcuts, grinder with concrete disc, paper towels.
i) Pour a concrete foundation the same size or a little larger than the intended plinth. Use a 10 cm / 4 inch bed of stone aggregate, and a 20 cm / 8 inch layer of concrete. Allow this to set for 48 hours.
ii) Build the brick or stone column section, using a cement-rich mortar mix of one part cement to two parts sand (though weaker mixes will do). Remove excess mortar.
iii) Drill holes in the cap-piece, so you can bolt the statue onto it when you are ready.
iv) Rough up the top of the final brick or stone course and the base of the cap-piece using a grinder to increase adhesion.Â
v) Place the sculpture gently on its side on the blankets. Screw the threaded rods into the base. Using timber offcuts, prepare a stable raised place to situate the cap-piece. Place the cap-piece onto the raised timber offcuts. Place the statue with the inserted threaded rods onto the cap-piece. Use the washers and nuts to bolt the sculpture to the cap-piece (use a minimum of two threaded rods as this prevents simply unscrewing the sculpture off a single threaded rod).Â
v) Apply a large amount of the outdoor adhesive to the top of the stone course (and to the bottom of the cap-piece if you can, avoiding the nuts). Place the cap-piece onto the brick or stone column, and clean off the excess adhesive with paper towels until invisible.Â
Above: Imperial and metric plywood explained by Vina Wood Ltd.
Above – a guide to building a plinth from Emily Watkins with pictures
Above – Savvas Papasavva has some excellent how-to videos on building and painting a plinth.
Making your own indoor statue plinth
What you need:
– measuring tape, paper, pencil,
– 1 x 2 inch timber or 2 x 2 inch timber,
– 12mm, or 1/2 inch ply wood or mdf sheet,
– wood screws, these should be longer than the width of your timber, but no longer than the width of your timber plus the thickness of your wood sheet
– electric hand drill with Philips head screwdriver bit of an appropriate size to fit the wood screws,
– wood primer paint, your chosen coloured paint, paint brushes or a paint roller and tray,
– a filler that can be sanded flat when dry, sandpaper or a sanding block,
– hand saw,
– a ‘drop cloth’ or decorator’s sheet, and a place to cut wood and use paint without causing a mess.
Optional: circular saw, mitre saw, right angle triangle, heavier grade timber like 2 x 4 inch, filler knife or spatula, a drill bit for pilot holes.Â
i) Calculating your measurements: Sketch the finished plinth onto a piece of paper and write down your chosen measurements. Now draw 2 rectangles and a square. The square represents the top of your plinth, so write the chosen width on each side of your square. Each single rectangle represents two sides of the plinth, so write “x 2” by each rectangle. Write the width you chose on one rectangle “width”, then write the width minus twice the thickness of your sheet wood on the other “width – thickness – thickness”. Now write the same height on both rectangles, which is your chosen plinth height minus the thickness of your sheet wood “height – thickness”. This length, the “height – thickness”, is also the length you will cut your four pieces of 1 x 2 inch batten, or 2 x 2 inch timber. Â
ii) Check your measurements and cut your four lengths of timber, and your 5 pieces of sheet wood.
iii) Separate the narrower 2 rectangular pieces (the ones that measure “width – thickness – thickness”) and place two pieces of timber along the long edges each. Screw these on through the timber.Â
iv) Now take the wider two rectangles and screw them to the prepared sides from what will seen be the outside of the plinth. Ensure these wider rectangles are flush with the outer edges of the prepared 2 sides.
v) Screw the square lid onto the top.Â
vi) (Optional) to add weight and make your plinth more bottom heavy and therefore more stable, cut four short lengths of heavy timber, like 2 x 4 inch, and screw the pieces into the open bottom of the base.
vii) Now use filler to cover the screw heads, allow it to dry, then sand it flat with the sandpaper.
viii) Paint your plinth with the primer paint. Leave to dry, then repeat once more.
ix) Paint your plinth with your chosen coloured paint. Leave to dry. Repeat once more if needed.
Directory of sculpture plinth and pedestal suppliers
UK - list of plinth suppliers in the United Kingdom
Plywood plinths: WoodStelDesign – Plinths.co.uk – ArtPlinths.co.uk – ArtBoards
MDF plinths: LJB Woodworks –Â BespokeMDF – Gerstaecker – Plinths&Pedestals – Plinths & More – Exhibition Plinths – CutMy.co.uk
Solid wood plinths: Plinths.co.uk – Wood Turning From Mark – JR Woodcraft
Corten steel plinths: Corten Style –Â Flora Select – LuxUnique
Metal plinths: Urban Grow – Andy Stedman Design Shop – Plinths.co.uk – LegendUrn
Cast stone plinths: Haddonstone – Acanthus – Cranborne – Chilstone – Discount Garden Statues – Birdsall & Co – Geoff’s Garden Ornaments
Stone plinths: Sculptured Arts Studio – UK Architectural Antiques – BCN Marble Design – Pergamon – TM Stone – Westland – Shropshire Design
Resin plinths (sometimes called fibreclay): Holstens – Whittingtons – Statues And Sculptures
Reclaimed brick: Reclaimed Brick Company – Hadley-Reclaimed
Boulders & Feature stones – Welsh Slate Water Features – Mid Wales Stone – Decorative Aggregates – Miles Stone – Paving Superstore
Polished Concrete – Gecko Polished Concrete
Acrylic plastic – Retail Acrylics – DDP Workshop – Displaypro – Pedestal Source
Glass plinths – Plinths.co.uk
USA - plinth suppliers in the United States of America
Plywood and thin timber plinths: ArtBoards – WW Pedestals – Decorativo Shop – From And To NatureÂ
MDF plinths: ShopPOPdisplays – Pedestal Source – Acrylic Wood Shop – Garrison Wood Farm Shop – France & Son – SubastralincÂ
Solid wood plinths:Â Harp Gallery – Perigold – Pujindu – Chairish – PFCDZDUÂ
Corten steel plinths:Â Ricki and Sons Shop – MakertableÂ
Metal plinths: Galore Home – MW Craft Shop – Art Deco Pro – All ModernÂ
Cast Stone plinths: Hen Feathers – Faraway Garden – Art of HistoryÂ
Stone plinths: Statue.com – EyeSwoon – Solid Rock Stone Works – Atelier BismuthÂ
Resin plinths (sometimes called fibreclay): A Rustic Garden – Wayfair –Â Design ToscanoÂ
Reclaimed brick: Gavin Historical Brick – Columbia Block and Brick – TellurideÂ
Boulders & Feature stones – EarthStoneRock – Southwest Stone Supply – New York QuarriesÂ
Concrete – VertexÂ
Acrylic plastic – Walmart – Pedestal Source – Candy ConceptsÂ
Plaster plinths – MuseumizeÂ
CAN - plinth suppliers in Canada
( Page still under construction )
AUS - plinth suppliers in Australia
( Page still under construction )
NZ - plinth suppliers in New Zealand
( Page still under construction )
DE - plinth suppliers in Germany
( Page still under construction )
FR - plinth suppliers in France
( Page still under construction )
Below – You can draw up a diagram for a contractor to consider for any type of plinth, like this stainless steel plinth design
Above – Reclaimed bricks make a beautiful garden plinth, blending in with a softer presence in the garden, like these at Reclaimed Brick (USA)
Useful terms to search for plinths and pedestals when googling or using a search engine
Half of the difficulty in finding a statue plinth in your country is using the right search terms, which vary. Try these:
Statue Plinth / Sculpture Pedestal / Art Column / Solid Wood Block / Tall Art Display / Stone Side Table / Statue Dais / Sculpture Podium / Indoor Art Platform / MDF Gallery Base / Lamp Stand Table / Statue Socle / Plant Stand
Above – You can find many types of old outdoor plinths at reclamation yards, like these stone plinth blocks at the Reclaimed Brick Company (UK)
It can also be helpful to specify the material in your search term, because materials aren’t always available or called by the same word in different countries.Â
For example:
MDF plinths are also knows as Fibreboard plinths and also Laminate Plinths and also Veneer Plinths. Which is difficult if you are specifically searching for Plywood Plinths, for their relative longevity compared to the cheaper and more common mdf.
It helps if you enclose the material in your online search with a set of speech marks, like this:
  buy “Plywood” pedestal for statuesÂ
Because that tells the search engine to only return results that have that word, instead of results that have some of your words (usually not the difficult to find one).
Also, if you keep getting results that are not relevant, for example if you search in the USA for statue pedestal then the Statue of Liberty may keep coming up, then you can use a minus symbol in front of one word you do not want the search engine to find. Then it is not likely to suggest that result again. You can do that like this:
  buy statue pedestal usa -libertyÂ
How to attach a statue to a plinth – mounting a sculpture on a pedestal or stone bench
Indoors, you can secure a statue to its plinth using:
– double-sided velcro pads or tape (sometimes known as hook-and-loop fastener)Â
– VHB tape (sometimes known as skyscraper tape)
This can be a good idea because accidents do happen and it can be easy to knock a sculpture off its plinth by mistake.
Outdoors, it is better to use stainless steel fastenings like threaded rods, along with stainless steel nuts and washers, or glue, to fasten the statue to the pedestal and ensure it stays safe in strong wind, and make it more secure against theft.
If your sculpture does not have fixing points, it may be possible to add some. But if possible you should get in touch with the artist to ask about it first.Â
Below – The statue of Beth and Alfie mounted on a granite bench
Installation instructions – how to glue your statue onto a plinth
Tools for bolting on
– Small spreading tool, spatula, or wooden lolly sticks
– Cloth or paper to clean any excess glue
– Mixing pots if using a two part glue which requires manual mixing
– A pencil with a rubber
– A large sheet of paper or cardboard
– Cushioning (like some old blankets)
– A small knife
– A hammer drill and masonry drill bits for a stone plinth, or a hand drill and wood drill bits for a wooden plinth
When handling your statue, move it with care, ideally two people or more should lift a larger statue. Always place the statue down gently, and flat, to avoid the weight of the sculpture scratches or chips.
1. Place the sculpture on the plinth you intend to secure it on without the threaded rods screwed in place. Move the sculpture and rotate it around until you are happy with the position – be careful when rotating on a rough surface. We suggest lifting the statue in all cases before rotating, then placing down again – to prevent scratches. Ensure the sculpture is held stable while you choose the position and rotation.
2. Mark the plinth around the base of the sculpture with the pencil and, using an obvious reference point on the sculpture like an arm, beak, foot or tail, mark the direction the sculpture is pointing, ideally with the word ‘tail’ or ‘foot’, for example, so you don’t forget. Remove the sculpture and lay it carefully on the ground on your cushioning.
3. Create a template by taking a large sheet of stiff paper or thin cardboard, and placing the sculpture on it, marking the same direction you previously marked on the installation site. Note that it is rare that the threaded bars will be completely vertical so expect to resize the holes later, to accommodate some variation. Screw the threaded rods into the base.
Now place the cardboard over the threaded rods and mark their location. Pierce the cardboard in those locations, then gently push the template up the rods towards the base. Use the knife to help prevent irregular tearing caused by non-vertical threaded rods. Now remove the template – one or more of the original holes will have expanded. The length of the final hole indicates the width of the holes you will be drilling in the pedestal. They may be different sizes, depending on how much you need to increase the size of your drill bit to accommodate a slightly tilted threaded rod.
4. Place the template over the installation area with the template arrow facing the same direction as the arrow you have marked on the plinth for the direction (like the tail, foot or other marker).
5. Use the template to mark the locations of the holes, and then drill the holes using a drill bit that is a little larger than the diameter of the threaded rods (if straight) or the enlarged hole on the template (if one or more rods is a little angled).
6. With the rods screwed into the sculpture, lower the sculpture over the holes to check that the rods sit comfortably inside the holes and the sculpture is orientated correctly. If the pins do not enter the holes, reshape the holes with the drill until the pins do sit into them and the sculpture is able to sit flat on the plinth.
7. Remove the sculpture and store it carefully to one side, then clean the holes as best you can, removing as much stone dust as possible to get the best glue adherence.
8. If using a mixing glue, mix the glue in a suitable container. Using a thin spatula, a rod or a thin brush, push glue down into the three holes. Make sure the glue coats the bottom and the sides of each hole.
9. Spread the glue onto the three rods underneath the sculpture, pushing it into the threads, then, whilst the glue is still wet immediately place the sculpture back with the pins pushed into the holes pushed down as far as they will go.
10. Quickly check that the sculpture is still in the correct position, flat and with the correct orientation.
11. Remove any glue that seeps out under the base plate or through the holes.
12. It is important to give the glue time to set properly. This may take 15 minutes, depending on the glue, and it may take longer in the cold weather. Your installers should keep the sculpture in position, holding the sculpture steady on the plinth until the glue sets. You can check the glue remaining in your mixing container to get an idea of whether the glue has set.
Recommended glues
All the glues below have been frequently and successfully used by sculptors to secure sculpture in stone. The choice of glue you use among other factors, such as temperature, damp and the strength required, is dependent on how fast you would like it to cure. If you haven’t used a stone glue before, you may want more time to make sure the sculpture has settled correctly. In this instance, a Tenax type glue may be preferred (see below).
If you are confident about your installation and perform all the pre-checks, so check:
– You are happy with the sculpture’s orientation (it sits at the right angle, and is facing the
way you want).
– The holes are correctly drilled in the right places and to an adequate depth.
– The holes are free of stone dust.
Then you may find that a premixed glue will be simpler and quicker to use.
Tenax Domo 10
This glue has long curing time, is strong, and has good weather resistance. The mixing and
application is a little fiddly.
SikaAnchorFix®-1
This is a reasonably fast curing, reliable, and easy to mix adhesive.
Easyfix Kempsc 175ef
This is quite fast to cure, is reliable, and is ‘premixed’ in the sense that the glue mixes in the
nozzle. It is good for damp conditions.
Unusual pedestal ideas – beautiful, thought-provoking, or clever plinths
Here are some more unusual plinth and pedestal ideas, which might give extra flair to your room.
A burned wood ‘charcoal’ plinth from Claude Home (USA)
A light box plinth from Art Plinths (UK)
A paper plinth for a desk or table from Parvum Opus (USA)
An wood laminate plinth from Perigold (USA)
A wood sheet plinth made from OSB from LJB WoodWorks (UK)
An mdf laminate and crystal plinth from France and Son (USA)
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